Thursday, 18 August 2011

Nobody biting

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve read that food is going to be the saviour of the wet-led pub. But it isn’t always quite as simple as that. Not too far from me, there’s a big Victorian pub in a prominent suburban main-road location tied to one of the local family brewers. It used to do a cheap and cheerful lunchtime menu of toasties, bacon barms, ham, egg & chips, pensioners’ specials and the like, which seemed to bring in a reasonable amount of custom.

However, the brewery clearly thought the food trade had more potential, so they gave it a makeover – nothing structural, just new upholstery and chairs and a general spring-clean, put the bar staff in uniforms and introduced a new and more ambitious menu with most main courses in the £7+ bracket. However, all this seems to have done is to drive away the old food trade but not bring in any new, more upmarket customers. I’ve been in at lunchtimes both during the week and at weekends, and have always been able to count the number of diners on the fingers of one hand. Sometimes there have been none at all.

Possibly the fact that the pub, both outside and in, still looks like a classic urban local doesn’t help matters. If the same food offer was transplanted into a cottage-style establishment ten miles further south, it might prosper. But it looks as though, in this pub, in this location, the owning company have made a wrong call on the potential food trade. You wouldn’t blame them too much if they decided to cut their losses and, as many other pubs have done, drop the food entirely and not even bother opening at lunchtimes during the week.

Sunday, 14 August 2011

The indifferent stuff

Well, here are the results of the survey question “Name up to three cask beers that you regard as poor or lacklustre examples of the genre.” As you can see, there’s an even more decisive winner in the shape of Greene King IPA, with Wells Bombardier second and Sharps Doom Bar third.

There are quite a few beers that appear in both lists, such as both Bombardier and Doom Bar, Deuchars IPA, Butcombe Bitter, Holts Bitter and Wadworths 6X. I’m disappointed to see Harveys Sussex Best on this list as to my mind it is one of the finest ordinary bitters in the country.

It is noticeable that this list includes many of the most widely-distributed cask beers in Britain. This raises some interesting questions. Are these intrinsically lacklustre beers, brewed to a lowest common denominator for a mass market? Or is it a case of “familiarity breeds contempt”? Or could it be that, the more widely available a beer is, the more likely it is to end up in outlets that can’t look after cask beer properly, thus damaging its reputation?

For example, Wells Bombardier is a beer that I “think” I don’t much care for. However, I have to say on the past three occasions when I’ve drunk it, generally when there wasn’t much else to choose from, I have found it in good condition and a perfectly pleasant pint.

And does it do the overall cause of cask beer any good when “beer enthusiasts” dismiss many of the cask beers the average drinker is likely to encounter as disappointingly bland?

29 votes:
Greene King IPA

Ten votes:
Wells Bombardier

Eight votes:
Sharps Doom Bar

Six votes:
Marstons Pedigree

Five votes:
Deuchars IPA

Four votes:
Ruddles Best Bitter
Wychwood Hobgoblin

Three votes:
Courage Directors
Greene King Abbot Ale
Hydes Bitter
Shepherd Neame Spitfire
Tetley Bitter
Youngs Bitter

Two votes:
Draught Bass
Fullers London Pride
John Smiths Cask
Marstons EPA
Morland Old Speckled Hen
Ringwood Best Bitter
Robinsons Unicorn
Sam Smiths OBB
Theakstons Best Bitter
Thwaites Bitter
Wadworths 6X
Wells Eagle IPA

One vote:
Ansells Bitter
Any golden ale
Anything by Arkells
Anything by Coach House
Anything by Enville
Anything by Greene King
Anything by Marstons
Anything by Hydes
Anything by Salamander
Arkells 3B
Badger Best Bitter
Banks’s Best (not sure if this means Mild or Bitter)
Bath Ales Gem
Black Sheep Bitter
Boddingtons Bitter
Brains SA
BrewDog Paradox
BrewDog Punk IPA
Butcombe Bitter
Caledonian Golden Promise
Courage Best Bitter
Davenports Bitter
Dorset Piddle Cocky Hop
Everards Sunchaser
Fullers Discovery
Harveys Sussex Best Bitter
Holts Bitter
Holts IPA
Jennings Cumberland Ale
Leeds Brewery Best
Lees Mild
Ramsbury Bitter
Sambrooks Wandle
Shepherd Neame Master Brew
Storm Brewing Storm Damage
Woodfordes Wherry

Saturday, 13 August 2011

Heavy fuel

Not sure what to make of this one. Do ten readers of this blog really believe that drinking 15 pints of Stella or Abbot a week makes someone a “heavy drinker”? That’s hardly two pints a day. Or did they interpret it as “what is the official government line?” Even that is 50 units a week, which in the terms of the poll would equate to 20 pints.

If this reflects the genuine opinion of blog readers, it’s hardly surprising that the pub trade is on its knees.

Thursday, 11 August 2011

The Good Stuff

The survey on which cask beers you like and dislike has now closed. There were 52 individual responses in total. Obviously this takes a bit of work to analyse, so I’ll present “The Good” today and “The Bad” hopefully tomorrow.

So here are the results of “Name up to three cask beers that you regard as good examples of the genre and that you would happily recommend to others.” Number 1 was perhaps not a total surprise, but Dark Star Hophead made a strong showing in second place and Taylors Landlord in third. Bear in mind that the responses were entirely unprompted.

As you will see later, quite a few of these beers also feature on the other list.

Incidentally, I now have 99 followers, so one more to bring it up to the round 100 would be nice :-)

13 Votes: Thornbridge Jaipur IPA

10 Votes: Dark Star Hophead

7 Votes: Taylors Landlord

5 Votes: Fullers London Pride

4 Votes:
Harveys Sussex Best Bitter
Oakham Citra
St Austell Tribute

3 Votes:
St Austell Proper Job
Robinsons Old Tom

2 Votes:
Adnams Broadside
Bathams Best Bitter
Black Sheep Bitter
Brakspear Bitter
BrewDog Edge
Copper Dragon Golden Pippin
Dark Star American Pale Ale
Deuchars IPA
Harviestoun Bitter and Twisted
Jennings Snecklifter
Kelham Island Pale Rider
Marble Lagonda IPA
Marble Manchester Bitter
Marble Pint
Oakham JHB
Pictish Brewers Gold
Thornbridge Kipling
Thornbridge Wild Swan
Wadworths 6X

1 Vote:
Abbey Ales Bell Ringer
Anything by Dark Star
Anything by Hook Norton
Anything by Oakham
Anything by Thornbridge
Arbor Ales Oyster Stout
Arundel Mild
Bowman Swift One
Brains Dark
Brains SA Gold
BrewDog Grain Cask
BrewDog Paradox
Brimstage Oystercatcher Stout
Bristol Beer Factory Stout
Butcombe Bitter
Buxton Axe Edge IPA
Camden Inner City Green
Castle Rock Harvest Pale
Dark Star Hopstar
Dunham Massey Stout
Eastwood and Sanders 1872 Porter
Everards Beacon Bitter
Everards Tiger
Flowerpots Perridge Pale
Fullers Bengal Lancer
Fullers London Porter
Fyne Ales Jarl
Grain India Pale Ale
Great Oakley Welland Valley Mild
Hardknott aether bleac
Harveys 1859 Porter
Harveys Hadlow
Harveys Old
Hawkshead Lakeland Gold
Hobsons Mild
Hogs Back TEA
Holts Bitter
Holt's IPA
Holts Mild
Hook Norton Old Hooky
Humpty Dumpty Porter
Ilkley Mary Jane
Kelham Island Easy Rider
Liverpool Organic Josephine Butler Elderflower Ale
Liverpool Organic Shipwreck IPA
Marble Dobber
Morland Old Speckled Hen
Old Dairy Brewery Blue Top
Old Dairy Brewery Gold Top
Ossett Citra
Otter Bitter
Phoenix Wobbly Bob
RedWillow Wreckless
Sam Smiths OBB
Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby Mild
Sharps Doom Bar
Southport Golden Sands
Titanic White Star
Triple fff Pressed Rat and Warthog
Ufford White Hart
Wadworths Horizon
Wells Bombardier
Woodfordes Wherry
Wye Valley Butty Bach
Wye Valley HPA
Yorkshire Dales Muker Silver

Monday, 8 August 2011

An MP repents

The following post by Natalie Solent on Samizdata is worth repeating in full:

Writing in today's Times behind a paywall, Natascha Engel, Labour MP for North East Derbyshire, relates how she stood in the rain outside a miner's welfare hall smoking with a angry but partially mollified constituent.

...he told me about his father in law who used to come to the welfare every night and spent all evening drinking one pint of Guinness. He was a chain smoker. Since the smoking ban he's never been back.

“He can't stand outside in the rain like this. He's an old man.” He told me about how his father-in-law never goes out any more. “He's lonely and miserable. And he still chain smokes.”
Natascha Engel now says that, given the chance again, she would not vote for the ban. It is good that she has the empathy to see and the courage to state that reason the smoking ban is wrong is that it makes people more miserable than they would otherwise have been. Just that. That is reason enough. Arguments about health are very interesting, and I have no doubt that the dangers of passive smoking have been exaggerated, but the fact that an old man has had the solace of smoking in company with his friends denied him trumps all that. I do wish Ms Engel had been able to perceive this at the time when her vote might have done some good, but better late than never.

End of an era

There’s a poignant article by Andy Sullivan (warning: very large .pdf file) in the latest edition of the local CAMRA magazine Opening Times under the title “The Hat Goes Forth”, about the decline of the pub trade in Denton and Audenshaw in Tameside to the east of Manchester. To read the full piece, turn to Page 19 of the .pdf, but the first couple of paragraphs really say it all:

It has to be said that Denton and Audenshaw do not immediately spring to mind when it comes to thinking about a destination for a beer or two. But I live here and have done for long enough to remember the Thursday, Friday and Saturday night wanders. Each of these evenings saw groups and couples of all ages starting in one pub, let's say the Cottage on Hyde Road, and by one route or another ending it in the Red Lion at Crown Point perhaps. There were the “all nighters” and the “last hour” people and their routines were pretty much a fixture.

Sadly those days are gone and I find the streets deserted of those mostly easy going folk, who often knew each other, passing the time of the night so to speak and the easy unthreatening atmosphere. Yes of course there were young men who got into fights, indeed sought them out, but it never seemed to spill over much and it was always fists and often handbags anyway. So it has to be said most of my supping goes on at tea time, which has kind of evolved over time and has a lot more to do with personal circumstances than the shift away from the pub culture of old.

This story is in common with many a town and familiar I guess to a lot of people so I won't belabour it too much, but it does go some way to emphasise the decline of the local pub trade, which appears to have reached catastrophic conditions and in particular recently here in Denton and Audenshaw.
Sadly, that is all too typical of working-class, industrial urban areas the length and breadth of the country. Now, I wonder what could have made a big contribution to such a decline “recently”. Any ideas?

Sunday, 7 August 2011

Weak beers to flood the market?

It seems that the Daily Mail has woken up to the fact that, from 1 October, the duty on beers of 2.8% ABV or lower will be halved. However, despite the suggestion in the article, I can’t see it affecting the price of the “normal” pint bought in pubs. Obviously it’s too early to say exactly what the impact will be, but I would expect the main beneficiary to be cheap off-trade lager.

Price may influence people’s decision as to whether to go to the pub or not, but once inside they’re not all that price-conscious, otherwise mild would do a lot better than it does. Also bear in mind that many drinks in pubs are bought in rounds, where there is less incentive to choose the cheapest, and any disparity in price is accepted so long as participants don’t blatantly take the piss. I can’t see £2 pints of 2.8% bitter decimating the sales of the 4% stuff at £2.50. I know it’s politically incorrect to say so, but people actually buy beer partly because it contains alcohol, so whether or not the taste is unaffected is not the sole consideration.

I can, however, see the likes of Carling, Carlsberg and Fosters bringing out 2.8% versions which may sell enough in pubs to be viable, but won’t take over from the mainstream brands. Apart from maybe a few existing milds being reformulated to take advantage of the lower duty, I really don’t see much impact on the cask sector. But of course only time will tell.

Saturday, 6 August 2011

The ultimate question

Following on from the two surveys of smokers and non-smokers, I thought I would ask the overarching question “What is your view on smoking in pubs and bars?” The results are shown in the graphic.

The previous general blog readers’ survey showed that people came to this blog for its specific pubs and beer content, as opposed to more general political and libertarian reasons, by a margin of about two to one. Nevertheless, four-fifths of all respondents supported some relaxation of the smoking ban, with only just short of 50% failing to see the need for any legislation whatsoever. On the other hand, five people seemed keen to wipe out what remains of the pub trade.

I always regret not adding a option along the lines of “smokers should be locked in the showers and gassed with their own vile fumes” to really smoke people out.

I know I’ve done this, or similar, before, but maybe I should do it every year to see how opinion has moved.

Friday, 5 August 2011

Drink-drive deaths down 35%

New figures from the Department for Transport reveal there was a sharp fall in deaths from drink-drive accidents in 2010.

There were 250 fatalities in 2010, compared to a total of 380 deaths in 2009, reveals the department’s provisional report.

Serious injuries from drink-driving incidents fell 18 per cent to 1,230 and slight injuries were down 19 per cent at 8,220.

In 1979, when drink-drive casualty records began, there were as many as 1,640 deaths.

Transport minister Norman Baker said: ‘The provisional figures suggest the number of drink-drive deaths is now 83 per cent lower than 30 years ago – this is very welcome. However, we are determined to continue to take firm action against the small minority of drivers who still ignore the limit.’
Very good news that backs up Transport Secretary Philip Hammond’s decision earlier this year not to cut the drink-drive limit. Arguably, the vast majority of the casualty reductions that might have been achieved by cutting the limit fifteen or twenty years ago have already been realised by changes in behaviour. However, regrettably, some of this fall must be due to people simply choosing not to visit pubs at all, with the inevitable repercussions for the pub trade.

Thursday, 4 August 2011

Can you judge a pub by its car park?

Pubs Then and Now shows pictures of the Boot at Lapworth in Warwickshire with the contents of the car park becoming steadily more upmarket over the years. So this got me thinking about how you can often tell what to expect inside a pub from what is parked outside. This can be especially useful in rural areas where it’s not always that obvious from the exterior whether you’ve chanced upon a genuine unspoilt pub or a stripped pine dining emporium.

So here are a few rough and ready guidelines that could come in handy (not to be taken too seriously):
  • Land Rover Defenders, Lada Nivas, old Subaru Legacy estates, rusty Fiesta vans, anything over six years old covered in mud: Much talk of crop yields, livestock prices and field sports. Wet, smelly dogs. May not be too welcoming to townies.

  • Extensively modified Saxos, C2s, MG ZRs and Corsas: Expect to hear some bangin’ chewns. Bacardi breezers and Blue WKDs very popular, but cask beer unlikely to be available.

  • Mainstream Fords and Vauxhalls over four years old, aftermarket alloys, things dangling from the rear view mirror: Here for the game, mate. Another four Carlings, love! Anyone seen my copy of the Sun?

  • French cars of a few years old, very likely diesels, not very clean, junk in the footwells, National Trust and RSPB stickers: A good selection of ales, and of beards and chunky knitwear.

  • Rover 400s/45s, Honda Jazzes, Skoda Fabias, Hyundais: Pensioners’ special – full roast dinner for £5.99. None of that foreign muck here. Much indecision as to where to sit.

  • VW Sharans, Vauxhall Merivas, Renault Scénics: Family dining. Kids eat free! Take your earplugs.

  • Newish Audis, Volvos, “crossover” 4x4s: Oh, what a lovely dining pub. They do a simply divine braised lamb shank with tarragon gravy.

  • Range Rovers, Porsches, high-end Mercedes: Footballers’ Wives territory. If you’re lucky, you might get a pint of Peroni for a fiver, but can you afford those cocktails?
Another point is that, in my experience, a full car park by no means always implies no seating room inside. The occupants either park up and go walking, or mysteriously vanish into thin air, so it’s always worth poking your nose round the door even if it doesn’t look too promising.

I hear no ticking

It’s commonplace nowadays to hear various self-appointed “health campaigners” going on about how modern lifestyles mean that children living today are likely to die at a younger age than their parents. We’ve got an obesity timebomb, a cancer timebomb, a heart disease timebomb, a diabetes timebomb and an alcohol timebomb, all merrily ticking away.

Yet figures released today show that, on average, people are living longer and longer.
Today's 20-year-olds are three times more likely to live to 100 than their grandparents and twice as likely as their parents, official figures show.

And a baby born in 2011 is almost eight times more likely to reach their 100th birthday than one born 80 years ago.

A girl born this year has a one-in-three chance of reaching 100 years old and boys have a one-in-four chance.
This trend has been going on for many years and there’s no sign of it slowing down, let alone reversing. And I’ve got a good idea who is drawing reasonable scientific conclusions and who is engaged in irresponsible scaremongering.

The only timebomb we really need to worry about is the pensions one.

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

The good, the bad and the ugly

Here is a brief survey on which cask beers people would nominate as good, and which they think are poor. It will be interesting to see how much convergence there is in the results. I can certainly think of one IPA that is likely to feature in the “good” section, and another likely to be classified as “bad”. As with all these surveys, it’s limited to a maximum of 100 responses. Please note I’m really looking for specific beers, not the output of entire breweries.

Edit: and the first two responses include one particular beer in both categories!

More media bias

Apparently the BBC screened a Panorama programme last night that could be described as a half-hour commercial for the anti-drink lobby. I didn’t see it myself (my blood pressure would probably have been unable to stand the strain) but it is very effectively deconstructed by Chris Snowdon here.

Two of the Prohibitionists’ distortions of the truth particularly stand out:

  • While it is true that per capita alcohol consumption in the UK has approximately doubled since 1947, that year, in the wake of a World War and in a time of austerity and rationing, was an untypical historic low point. The current level is only consistent with the long-term historic average.

  • How can alcohol be considered absurdly cheap in this country when we have some of the very highest rates of alcohol duty in the entire European Union? Our duties are higher even than those in Sweden, notorious for its strict anti-drink culture. If alcohol is causing problems, then surely it must be due to social factors other than price.

Monday, 1 August 2011

Drip, drip, drip...

Pubs are still closing in large numbers, and on-trade beer sales are dropping steadily, if not quite catastrophically. But some may question whether this continued decline can be blamed to any extent on the smoking ban, which after all came into effect a full four years ago.

Well, I’ve never claimed that the smoking ban is the sole cause of the decline of pubs over the past four years, but it’s certainly been a major cause. And I would say it’s still happening even now. This is due to what could be described as “the slow erosion of sociability”. You may wonder how a small, steady drip, drip, drip of water can do anything to a rock, but over time it can completely wear it away. One Tuesday night, Ken decides not to go the pub, because last week standing outside in the cold really made his joints play up. Phil notices this, and mentions it to Jenny, who ends up giving it a miss the next week. And so it goes on.

It wasn’t the case that a lot of smokers made a swift decision after the ban that pubs were no longer for them, although some undoubtedly did. Others might have made an effort to stay inside and just pop out occasionally, but after a while have found that didn’t suit. They may have given up after one harsh winter, or stuck it out but been finally deterred by a second one, or even a third one. And non-smoking friends and acquaintances may have continued going, but suddenly found it less appealing when some of the folks they used to chat with were no longer there.

Plus, with many people, it’s not a case of stopping visiting entirely, but of going less often and spending less when they do go. It is very noticeable that the trade of pubs had dropped much less at the traditional weekend busy times than at what were always quieter periods. Many pubs used to have a baseload trade of lunchtime regulars, retired or unemployed or on invalidity, including in my experience a fair proportion of smokers. That kind of trade seems now to have largely disappeared. Plenty of pubs no longer open at lunchtimes during the week, and where they do they are often embarrassingly quiet. And what are all those people doing? Probably sitting at home with a few cans and an ashtray watching daytime TV on their own.

Changes in people’s social habits happen very gradually and often creep up on them. They may suddenly realise “I used to go to the Dog & Duck at least twice a month, but I’ve not been for a year now.”

Obviously the effect has somewhat flattened out now, but it’s not yet run its course. And, as has often been remarked upon, the much-heralded influx of non-smoking drinkers to pubs totally failed to materialise.

There are other factors at work, too. First is the fact that new entrants to the potential pubgoing population may well take a different view from their elders. If you’re used to going to pubs, you may be prepared to put up with popping outside for a fag, but if you’ve never got into the pubgoing habit you may fail to see the point if you’re not allowed to smoke.

Then there is always the temptation of the “new format” or the “rebranding”. If you’re running a petrol station, there’s not a huge amount you can do to diversify if demand for your core product drops off. But, with a pub, there are always other things you can try to drum up more trade – more or different food, guest beers, quiz nights, karaoke. Sometimes these will produce a short-term boost, but all too often trade eventually falls back to its previous level. All you’re doing is temporarily redistributing the existing trade, not increasing the overall level. This makes the pub trade almost uniquely vulnerable to “the triumph of hope over experience”.

There’s also the state of the property market. For three years it’s been in the doldrums, so the opportunities to sell up for redevelopment are curtailed. Thus some pubs stagger on because that’s more economic in the short-term, but once things pick up their days will be numbered. I’m surprised, for example, that all of the six rather down-market wet-led pubs on Castle Street, Edgeley, Stockport, have survived thus far. I’d be even more surprised if they were still all there in five years’ time. (I think the unlamented Windsor Castle had closed some time before 2007) There are plenty of pubs still open and trading that in the long term have been made unviable by the smoking ban.

I would say it will be at least ten years before the effects of the ban have fully worked their way through the pub trade. By that time we may be down to less than 40,000.

A crafty pint

August’s column in Opening Times might well be of wider interest...