Last week’s issue of the Spectator magazine contained a very insightful article by Henry Jeffreys entitled How Britain sobered up, looking at how this country has fallen out of love with drinking alcohol. The whole thing is well worth reading*, but this paragraph is particularly salient:
The real losers in Britain have been pubs. Since 2000, Britain has lost more than 13,000 pubs – a quarter of its total – and the rate of closures is growing. It doesn’t help that we are all increasingly told to drink less: in 2016, recommendations for drinking levels were lowered to 14 units for men and women in Britain. The World Health Organisation even states that there is no safe level for alcohol consumption, despite numerous studies which show that in small quantities alcohol can be beneficial to our health. Not that you are likely to hear about the benefits of drinking from the alcohol industry. Instead, it is fighting a losing battle in enemy territory, up against public health officials and the NHS.We are subjected to an ever-growing amount of anti-alcohol messaging, not just specifically health-related, but also lifestyle pieces preaching the benefits of an alcohol-free lifestyle and celebrity interviews dissecting their alcohol problems and proudly proclaiming their newly sober status. The pleasures of moderate drinking and the companionship of pubs rarely get a look-in. Inevitably, this is going to influence people’s decision-making, especially amoungst younger people who are just beginning to form their social habits.
Many people who comment on pubs and beer direct much of their ire at rapacious brewers and pub companies, while the anti-drink lobby gets off relatively lightly. Yet this must be one of the key reasons for the decline of the pub trade in recent years. You have to wonder why CAMRA allowed its Drinkers’ Voice initiative, specificially set up to combat anti-drink messaging, to wither on the vine.
The author concludes:
If we’re not careful, we might soon discover that alcohol has become an unaffordable luxury, or something bought from the supermarket, with the only place to drink it being in the home. It’s a sobering thought. The cheap pint of beer in a local pub or the £10 bottle of wine imported by that funny little chap from France can’t exist without a lively drinking culture to support them… The risk is that we throw away our infrastructure of sociable, controlled intoxication in pubs, bars and restaurants. The sort of places where we can meet others and random encounters can happen, where young people can dance, flirt and laugh. In other words, civilisation.* The article is paywalled, but a free registration will allow you to read a couple of articles a month. If you’re really interested, I can send you the full text.
These prohibitionists are good for pubs as they destroy the market for chemical fizz lager, leaving only pure and natural and wholesome real ale to be enjoyed, which nobody in their right mind could ever take issue with drinking.
ReplyDeleteIt's only the chemical fizz that will be prohibited. Crafted real ales would never be.
But what are we each doing to counter this Dry January nonsense ?
ReplyDeleteI had 42 pints in pubs during the first three weeks which works out as a quart a day. I get out more during the spring and autumn.
Setting a splendid example for the young people :-)
DeleteAnd 45 pints of Marstons Pedigree over the past ten months, about a pint a week, give me more reason to moan about Carlsberg abandoning the Burton Unions than those who rarely drink it.
DeleteAnd 29 pints of Bank's Amber Bitter last year, about 2½ a month, give me more reason to moan about Carlsberg reducing it from 3.8% to 3.4% without passing on the duty saving than those who don't drink it.
DeleteDo we know whether the strength of the draught has been reduced as well as the bottles? Some other beers such as Ruddles Bitter have kept the strength of the draught version at the original figure.
DeleteThanks to Mudgie pointing it out its strength yesterday I had two more pints of Henry Weston 5.2% cider tonight and got a nice old buzz going before the vittles.
ReplyDeleteThing is it tasted exactly the same as last night and will taste exactly the same when I have two more pints tomorrow night. I know I'll never have to send back a ropey pint and put up with the raised eyebrows and sigh from the other side of the bar.
Reliability.
It's the one thing cask ale can't promise and very rarely does unless it's in good hands which is increasingly rare these days. How many landlords do you actually see supping ale these days anyway ?
I feel a bit ashamed tbh. It's like falling out with an old friend.
But unless I see Pride or a couple of other old bangers on the taps cask beer has just lost another lifetimer.
I've given it my best shot but at £5+ a pint and a rapidly decreasing number of years left in which to drink it I'm not going to take the risk any more.
Cider update.
DeleteHenry Weston 5.2% draught cider topped up with a bottle of Aspall's 5.5% Cyder is the dog's bollocks.
In Ireland they call bottled cider Knacker's Champagne.
So I shall christen this a Pikey's Lager Top.
More on my unscientific research into shit pints.
DeleteI picked up a ' clean ' empty glass in my local on Sunday when no-one was looking and held it up to the light. It was filthy. Not just because we're in a very hard water area which leaves a scum on everything but seriously filthy.
Last night I was in a nearby Butcombe pub and the Original was sensational. Just on tip top form like a good pint shoud be.
On the second I asked the barman to hold up the glass before filling it and it was like brand new. Sparkling.
Chatting away to him and he told me the brewery was shit-hot on how their glasses were cleaned. Anything remotely not up to standard was ditched straight away.
It's also interesting that there is no-one working behind the bar of my local including the landlord who ever drinks ale. So who is to tell if the pint is crap ?
Mind you even some of the lager drinkers were having a moan about the quality of the Moretti which was pouring totally flat.
Apparently 'elf and safety means you're not allowed to scrub glasses or cloth wipe them any more which sounds a bit wrong to me.
I bang on about glasses a lot but I know from experience they're just as important to a good pint as how often the lines are cleaned.
If Pubs are going to be saved, CAMRA needs to set targets for its members, measure performance and incentivise success.
ReplyDeleteI suggest turning the vouchers into app credits and adding a penalty charge to members that fail their 30 pints of spoons bitter.
Keep the sticker collection cards all year round and submit your cards with prizes for those that exceed the target and penalties for those that fail. Not just for mild, stickers for everything !
It's time to take saving the bitter seriously. CAMRA can't afford passengers that are all mouth, half a bitter and a lot of craft keg.
Go hard or go home I say !
But does the nation as a whole, feel any better for this abstinence, enforced or not?
ReplyDeleteI'm sure most commentators know what the answer will be!
Paul,
DeleteI don't think we've known "the nation as a whole" for quite some time now.
The pub industry gets what it deserves. It's been inhospitable to younger customers for years, treating them with contempt and serving them poorly. Now most won't touch pubs with a bargepole. You old guys are the last generation of pub goers, when you go, so do pubs.
ReplyDeleteUs boomers often find pubs inhospitable with posing tables and thumping hip-hop music.
DeleteAs a Gen-Xer rather than boomer, I'm sad to say I can see things to agree with, but also with Mudgie's comment. My previously favoured local is now somewhere I no longer want to go: it's filled with shrieking women, shouty blokes, kids running about, and plays loud, terrible music. The best area to sit- in a relatively quiet corner- had been replaced with a posing table. Last time I went in, I wondered to myself why I was paying 3 times the price for beer in a worse atmosphere, so left. Some people seem to like it, though. Maybe I'm just old, but the result is the same, I won't be back.
DeleteMarket forces, innit? But to say that pubs in general are deliberately tailored to be appealing to over-50s is ridiculous. I wrote a blogpost about this last year.
DeleteOn Greene King reparation payment demands - it's a slippery slope insn't it, virtue signalling with pub names and signs.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.cityam.com/an-ode-to-spoons-bastion-cheap-pints-steward-civic-heritage/
ReplyDelete